FAQ - Frequently asked questions

1 What is Isofin® and how does it work?

Isofin is a polymer-based hydrophobic injection barrier that permanently stops moisture in walls. It penetrates deep into the masonry and forms an invisible barrier that prevents moisture from rising or penetrating.

2. do I need special tools for the application of Isofin?

No, all you need to use Isofin® is a drill and the Isofin® bottles we supply. All further information can be found in our Isofin® book on the page Instructions (link).

3. which wall types is Isofin® suitable for?

To cut a long story short and save a list of several pages: Almost all types of stone, natural stone (quarry stone) and artificial stone (burnt bricks, sand-lime bricks, cement blocks, cinder blocks, etc.) can be treated with Isofin for optimum hydrophobization. There are only two exceptions where Isofin only develops a moderate effect: natural carbonate stone (lime tuff, travertine, marble, dolomite) and sulphate stone (gypsum, barite).

Nevertheless, Isofin can also be used successfully in masonry made of carbonate and sulphate rock. more in the manual.

If you are unsure what type of masonry you have, we will be happy to help you.

4. how long does it take for the walls to dry?

After application, the masonry needs a few weeks to dry out completely. The exact time depends on the moisture content and the wall thickness. The dryness improves continuously and renovation work can start after a few weeks.

5 How long does the Isofin® barrier last?

Once applied, Isofin protects your walls for up to 20 years - with a quality guarantee. The product is designed to work reliably even under difficult conditions.

6 Is Isofin® safe for my home and the environment?

Yes, Isofin is designed to be safe and compatible for your home. It is based on a water-repellent polymer solution that contains no harmful substances and is therefore safe to use.

7 How much does it cost to use Isofin®?

The cost depends on the size of the wall, but Isofin is one of the most cost-effective solutions for stopping damp in the long term. Compared to costly groundworks, you save thousands of euros.

8. does Isofin® also work with mold infestation?

Isofin stops the cause of mold - moisture. Once the walls are dry, existing mold can be removed and the formation of new mold is prevented.

9. do I need to consider anything before using Isofin®?

Yes, make sure the wall is free of heavy dirt or loose plaster. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the enclosed instructions to achieve the best results.

10. can I use Isofin® for basements or interior walls?

Yes, Isofin is suitable for both interior and exterior walls. It is ideal for basement walls affected by rising damp.

11. how does our Isofin® product work against capillary moisture and is it also suitable for pressing moisture?

Capillary moisture: Our product is ideal for treating capillary moisture. This condition occurs when moisture rises through the fine pores and cracks in the masonry, similar to the effect of a sponge. This is particularly common in older buildings without or with damaged horizontal waterproofing. Typical signs of this are damp walls, peeling paint and mold growth in the lower wall area.
 

Important: Please note that our product has been specially designed for the treatment of capillary moisture. For problems with pressing moisture, which often occurs in basements or underground buildings where water under pressure presses against walls or floors, we recommend a special waterproofing solution. Pressing damp is often manifested by puddles in the basement or by moisture seeping through cracks and joints and running down walls.
 

Our aim is to provide you with effective solutions for specific problems. Please contact us for further information on sealing solutions for pressing moisture.

The most frequently asked questions about Isofin® processing

How long does it take for the Isofin® bottle in the hole to run empty?

This depends on the porosity of the building material and its water saturation. The more porous the building material, the faster the Isofin® injection. The wetter the building material, the slower the water displacement and the longer it takes for the Isofin® to completely penetrate the wall.

With very fine-pored and very wet building material, this process can take up to 10 days. Only if a bottle is still not empty after 10 days (extremely rare) should you drill a new hole a few centimeters next to it and pour the rest of the bottle contents into the new hole.

I have stones with hollow chambers. The Isofin® ran into these stones in just a few minutes. Can the desired effect still occur?

Don't worry, even in this case Isofin® distributes itself so evenly in the masonry that the desired barrier is created.

The Isofin® first flows down to the next deeper mortar layer and saturates it. From this reservoir (mortar layer), the Isofin® is then distributed evenly in the injection zone of the masonry (see Figures 1 and 2). This ensures a continuous barrier layer.

I treated my cellar with Isofin® 8 weeks ago. The walls are now dry, but I can still see small areas of damp in the corners. What do I need to do?

Just wait a little longer. The visible wall areas have a large evaporation surface. However, the water from the corners must first migrate to these visible areas in order to evaporate. This takes a little more time. So just be patient - the rest will also dry.

I installed Isofin® horizontal barriers and an Isofin® surface barrier in my basement 1 week ago. How long does Isofin® take to spread and when can I set up a drying device?

Isofin® requires about 2-3 weeks for optimum distribution. Nevertheless, you can use a drying device in rooms with horizontal barriers after just 1 week. In rooms with Isofin® surface barriers, you should not use drying equipment until 2 weeks after the barrier has been installed.

Does a drying appliance shorten the drying time?

The wall is dried by evaporation of the water on the wall surface. This makes the room air more humid and evaporation slower. This increased humidity can be reduced either by good air exchange (regular ventilation) or by using a drying device to prevent the drying delay.

A drying unit is therefore useful if sufficient air exchange is not possible or the outside air is too warm and humid (e.g. in summer).

During the drying process, the water in the building material pores must always first migrate to the wall surface in order to evaporate there. This is a slow process that is not accelerated by the drying device itself.

However, an actual acceleration drying can be achieved by using a fan. If this is set up so that the air is blown along the wall, a negative pressure is created on the wall surface. This accelerates the transport of the pore water to the surface.

What do I need to consider if I have concrete walls?

You treat tamped concrete walls in the same way as brick walls. Rammed concrete is very porous, so the Isofin® bottles usually run empty within a few minutes. This is completely normal and does not impair the effect of Isofin®.

For poured concrete walls (e.g. reinforced concrete), please drill at a lateral distance of approx. 12.5 cm (half the normal lateral distance) and inject only half the amount of Isofin® per drill hole. Creating an Isofin® barrier in concrete is therefore somewhat more labor-intensive, but overall does not require more Isofin® than masonry.

For surface barriers in poured concrete, the vertical spacing of the drill holes is also 12.5 cm. The quantity of Isofin® per drill hole is reduced to a quarter of the normal quantity.

More detailed descriptions of more complicated applications can be found in the Isofin® application book; easy to understand and clearly laid out, on 105 pages, with 120+ illustrations.

Download manual (PDF)